Spain's Costa de Britannia

Walking through Estepona's boat docks around midday you might witness the paradox of the Costa del Sol: gathered around a kiosko, a group of sailors with bedraggled white beards gossip in Spanish after a morning at sea.  They stand just a short distance from the rows of bars and restaurants that ring the port, where British tourists are beginning to congregate around outdoor tables, enjoying plates of beans and toast and reading English newspapers.  Advertisments for jetski adventures, golf tours, and sport fishing excursions are mostly in English; even a few of the road signs warn "no camping" in the parking lot.  A small ancient tower that once guarded this coast from medieval pirates and invaders is obscured by a bland highrise of holiday apartments which now block it's view of the sea.  One bar will be showing Real Madrid vs. Manchester City tonight, and though this is Spain you probably don't want to be wearing Real Madrid jersey in there.


A quiet afternoon in the Puerto Deportivo de Estepona

The New Natives

This coastline has an extraordinary history, and the influx of British to its shores is hardly an unprecedented cultural intrusion.  Since the settlement of Astapa was first established here by the Phoenicians, the area has experienced multiple conquests and immigrations by dozens of cultures, including the Visigoths, Romans, Moors, Catalans, and multiple sub-groups of ethnic and religious communities within those broad labels.  Perhaps this is why Spanish here seem so non-chalant about the new natives, the British and Irish who now reside here full time, many in the service industry catering to their countrymen.  There are dozens of shops and restaurants for British tastes, tour operators and real estate agents, and closer to Malaga you will even pick up English language radio stations.  We called for a plumber, and two Scouse-speaking Brits appeared at our door.

It's so common, a British TV show called "Four Houses" (like the show Four Weddings, where competitors host each other and evaluate the experience for a prize) featured four British women showcasing their homes in Southern Spain.  (The apartment we're renting has Sky TV: British channels, very few in Spanish).

You can go days without being forced to speak English (though you will be obliged to decode those sticky linguistic differences between American and British speech).  However, the Brits (and Irish) are not the only expat communities establishing themselves on the Mediterranean coast: there are also billboards in Arabic and radio stations in Russian, and many cafes offer multilingual menus that include German and French, sometimes Dutch and Swedish.  In the modern European Union, it is extremely easy for snowbirds to flee the northern latitudes to Spain, just as American retirees buy homes in Florida and Arizona for the warm weather.  But just like the influx of New Yorkers to Florida's coasts over decades created an interesting mix of Caribbean, Southern, and Northeast cultures, a similar dynamic may be occurring here.

A modest Spanish-owned beach Chiringuito relies on business from tourists and expats staying in large seaside developments

Is it good or bad?

At a time when the economy in Spain is not fairing well, it's possible that the investments of EU tourists and retirees is very welcome here. We've met many expat business owners who are employing Spaniards, using Spanish products, and exporting Spanish culture back to their homelands.

As a visitor to Andalucía, there are potentially both positives and negatives about this British Invasion.  If you are coming for that "authentically Spanish" experience, you might be disappointed to encounter British culture and the few opportunities to practice your Spanish.  This overdeveloped region also probably lets you down if you were seeking quaint fishing villages.  However, Expat communities can provide comforts and services that are reassuring.  English speaking staff are easier to communicate with of course, as you book accommodations or need travel information.  In the case of an emergency or problem where you may need a doctor, or even a plumber, that ease of communication is especially helpful--  nothing will test your practical language comprehension limits like reading a dishwasher manual. 

I suggest making an effort to seek out the Spanish side of life in smaller inland towns, but also enjoying Costa del Sol's dynamic cultural environment.  It is after all perhaps Andalucía's most authentic experience: communities of cultural and linguistic diversity.  Drinking a Guinness with your seafood tapas while you look across the Mediterranean at Africa is definitely not a bad way to spend your evening.

Touring Morocco By Train

Getting around Morocco by train is generally easy and comfortable-- if you are flexible.  The rewards for having a relaxed agenda are the beautiful views of unexpected landscapes that evoke Tuscany and New Mexico, and others that are uniquely Moroccan, experienced alongside the diverse people who call this place home.


The view from our train, Casablanca to Marrakech


Between the coastal commercial center of Casablanca and the cultural capital of Marrakech, the land feels desolate-- once you move out of the industrial grime.  Rock-strewn red dirt fields gradually build into dry hills of occasional tufts of green.  Stout mudbrick homes cluster together in squares like Lego villages.  After a while, those homes and their fields are surrounded by lines of cacti that grow in chaotic cascades of broad flat leaves and small fruit.  The red of the soil seems to intensify, now contrasted by the green scrub bushes that are munched on by herds of sheep and goats.  From this silent landscape suddenly rise the loud white and pastel buildings that mark Marrakech’s suburbs, strewn with power wires and satellite dishes.  A few moments more and you pass grand villas and compounds of the upper classes before arriving in the heart of the new city. 

Heading north from Casablanca instead, you keep within sight of the Atlantic Ocean, moving up the coast where industrial ports and resort towns are visible along the route.  Turning inland a bit you quickly arrive in the suburbs of the capital and arrive in Rabat’s manicured station.  From here to Fès, there are plenty of villages and minarets visible between the forested areas.  You will begin to wonder which side of the Mediterranean you really are on when you catch sight of the rows of olives and grapes that dip into shallow valleys.  Now far to the east of the coast, you approach Meknès, ancient city of Morocco’s princes, high in the hills.  The train climbs to slightly higher altitudes in these foothills until you come into the burnt umber buildings of Fès.


Where You Can Go

The train system easily connects the major metropolitan and tourist centers, from Tangiers at the most north point to Marrakech in the south, and many small towns in between.  As long as you are not on a tight schedule and have allowed time for the unexpected delay, such as when your train hits an unfortunate sheep (true story), travel by rail is convenient and enjoyable. 

There is also a connected bus system ("Liaisons routieres") that reaches farther into the south, if you want to travel to Agadir or farther.  You can find out about schedules and tickets online at the OCNF website (that’s the Moroccan Amtrak).  This blog has also helpfully organized the times into a spreadsheet, but beware that schedules may change. 

Ticket Class

There are two classes on Moroccan trains, First and Second.  What’s the difference? 



First class compartment, we had to ourselves for part of the journey.
You can see our luggage stored overhead in the mirror.


 First Class: Reserved Seat and less passengers per compartment

•   Six seats and a compartment of people using iphones and tablets that are newer than yours, so you will feel more secure about your stufF
• Guaranteed seat, so less rushing- and you can request a window.
• The First class car is either at the very front or very back end of the train

 Second Class:

•  Eight seats, slightly more cramped and busy than first
• Interesting people-watching
•  Treat it like a subway, get on the first car that stops in front of you and find a seat from there 

On the Train

Once you find your spot, you can store your bags over or under the seat—just don’t forget it if you put it underneath! 

The conductor will come by to check tickets.  If the price of your ticket is not on your seat ticket, make sure you also have the receipt—some places will staple them together, others will not and you might be tempted to throw it away, but keep it!

Smoking is prohibited on the train, but like most places in Morocco where this is true, smokers have found their way around the rules and just congregate around the doors to smoke.  If you’re a guy who smokes and would like to chat with local men, this is a good place to strike up a conversation. (You won’t normally see women smoking here). 

People are also generally friendly and often chatty in the compartments, especially on long trips.  You might encounter businessmen, university students heading home for the weekend, women visiting family—all kinds.  Friday is an especially busy travel day as the weekend begins.  Many speak some English, everyone speaks French if you do.

You’ll eventually here a metallic “tap tap tap”—this is the foodcart warning you he’s coming down the hall.  The cart offers tea and coffee, water, sodas and snacks, and sandwiches (I don’t recommend the sandwiches or any non-packaged foods, just FYI).  Coffee is about 10 Dirhams. 

The Station (Le Gare)

The stations are all different, with varying levels of services. Even small town stations are staffed, but of course most of the big city stations have more seating, air-conditioned lobbies, restrooms, restaurants and shops.  At every station you need to show your ticket before you can walk to the platform (though some won’t bother asking foreigners).  Here’s a quick view of what to expect at three key stations you may encounter:

·         Marrakech: Perhaps the best in Morocco.  New and clean, it greets you with pleasant architecture and abundant amenities.  Ticket agents even speak some English to help you.  The lobby is huge with air conditioning and lots of seating, several shops for snacks and water, restaurants, good restrooms.  If you’re heading farther out of town by bus, the Supratours station is just around the corner.  The station is sort-of walking distance from the Medina through a pretty high-end “New Town” neighborhood, but it’s a little far while carrying all your gear.  I would opt for a taxi to the Jemma El Fna for around 20 Dirhams (depending on your negotiating skills) or better yet if you don’t mind the expense, the transfer arranged by your Riad.

·         Fès: A welcoming station, though the services are less spectacular.  Speaking French will help you here, as we didn’t encounter any English-speaking staff.  Also offers restrooms, stores, and cafes.  ATM and currency exchange right outside the door on the right. There are no phones inside the station—you need to cross the street (out the front doors, head to the right diagonal) to find payphones that take change or cards, if you need to call your host.

·         Casablanca: If you had any romantic ideas of Casablanca, they will probably die here at the train station.  It is small, busy, crowded, and offers few services.  The ticket queue seems always long but moves fast and staff are helpful. Don’t trust the signs telling you when the next train is coming; it’s better to ask someone to be sure you’re on the right platform. The café facing the parking lot is pleasant enough for a short break. 

A Few Hints

·         Buying tickets: you can’t buy tickets outside of Morocco, but once here it’s no problem, even same day or a half-hour before the train departs usually.  Try not to wait until the last minute as you might be delayed by long queues. Pay in cash.

·         Queuing: people in Morocco— and many other non-American/British societies—do not line up in the neat rows we might expect.  Just like with traffic on the streets, people merge together in a seemingly undisciplined way. To get your turn requires being proactive and not waiting to be told to move up.  Don’t get frustrated, adapt and do as they do.

·         Casablanca Airport: Taking the train between the airport and center of the city is easy, but infrequent. Trains run about every hour most of the day, but not necessarily on time- more often than not they are a few minutes late.  It takes about 30 minutes to get between Casa Voyageurs and Mohammad V Airport.  There is little difference here between 1^st and 2^nd class—price is marginally different, aircon is equally unreliable.

 If you must get there and need to guarantee your seat, spring for 1^st, but otherwise you should be able to jostle for a seat in 2^nd.  Jump on as fast as you can and be extra careful with  your wallet/passport.

Bon Voyage!

How to ruin your trip to Fez

Sadly, not every holiday in Morocco goes as planned.  There are a few unfortunate pitfalls that you may encounter, as many visitors before you have too.  Being aware of the problems might help you to avoid, or at least prepare, for some awful moments.  Of course, this is just about precaution— these are rare occurrences and for the most part travel in Morocco is safe and enjoyable. 

Get Sick



Taking it easy on the rooftop terrace of our Riad



You would think I would be immune to intestinal problems, or at least know how to avoid them, after getting some really outstanding bugs in Colombia, Indonesia, and quite honestly, right in my home state of California.  Yet, somewhere along the line I got too comfortable or unlucky, and a really fabulous case of traveler’s sickness hit me here in Fez.  Not sure where it came from—the cheese sandwich on the train yesterday?  The fruit salad with dinner?  Yes, I’ve made a few questionable choices.  Ç’a arrive, as they say here. It happens.  Inshallah, as they also say, I’ll hopefully be well again soon. (Already much better, thanks.)

How to deal with it?  Well, if you’re already hit with a bug, there are some useful tips on the wikitravel page, such as drinking water and taking it easy, obviously.  Maybe write a blog to keep your mind off of it for a little while.  

The local cure seems to be a teaspoon of ground cumin, washed down with water.  I just took my dose, we'll see how it works...

If you are still packing, you might have time to buy some pepto bismol and loperamide (Immodium) to take with you and help the symptoms.  Charcoal tablets are also good for absorbing and removing the offending elements.  Taking some antibiotics with you for an extended trip is often recommended by doctors too, for the worst cases.

Get Pickpocketed



It was a very unlucky day in our Riad—the same day I became sick, a French couple staying here were the victims of a pickpocket while they were on a bus to the airport. They thought their plane tickets, passports and money were safely tucked inside her purse which was zipped up and under her arm all along.  Arriving at the airport check-in, they began to search for their papers, still completely unaware that someone had taken a knife to the back of her bag to cut a hole and reach inside.  It wasn’t until she examined her purse closely that she realized the zipper had been sliced open just a few inches by a quiet thief, enough to ruin their vacation.

Whereas most travelers would be especially careful with their money in crowded streets, many of us drop our guard a bit when we are inside a shop or on a bus or train.  I’ve heard from other travelers of purses being picked while reaching for an item while shopping.  We were also warned about speaking on a smartphone in public, as sometimes a thief will quickly snatch it from you while you are distracted with your conversation.  Unfortunately, thieves practice at their craft much more than you practice your skills at avoiding them. 



What to do?  Leave behind valuables and important items with you while you’re out exploring.  Don’t carry too much cash.  If you are carrying your passport and wallet because you’re on your way to the airport, like our unfortunate friends, keep them deep in your bags or under your clothes.  You’ll want them handy for check-in, but wait until you arrive to fish them out.  Don’t use the front pocket of your backpack; if you can, tuck items into a safety pouch or at least carry them in your front pockets. 

Most importantly, don’t keep everything in one place. Maybe your cash will be missing, but if your credit cards are in another place you can still pay for a hotel and dinner.  If you do encounter a clever thief who finds a way around your preparations, you may need a backup plan to pay for your food, lodging, and return tickets—travel insurance or other alternatives.

Be Afraid



Maybe these horror stories have already made you change your plans to come to Morocco, but I hope not.   The small possibilities of illness and pickpockets shouldn’t deter you!  However, some might be swayed by news reports of conflicts and anti-American protests in the Arab world. 

We had our concerns, as a ridiculous "film" produced in the US and the publishing of a controversial cartoon in France became the sparks for protests in Egypt, Pakistan, and other nations.  When the US Ambassador was killed in nearby Libya, we began to wonder if we should have safety concerns about traveling to North Africa.

Caution is good, but information is better. Don’t rule out a trip because you read a disturbing article on Yahoo news. Find out what the US State Department and other sources say about the risks.  Try writing to travel discussion groups where you might be able to get first-hand perspective from tourists who are currently in the place you would like to visit. 


We did some research and found there were no travel advisories for Morocco or any other negative information that would stop us from going. Once here, we found Morocco to be diverse, tolerant, and welcoming of foreign visitors.

We heard that two French couples canceled their vacation to Morocco out of fear, which is a shame.  It’s unfortunate that we tend to lump the world into a single package.  The diverse people that make up a society are never as unified or extreme as quick caricatures in the media and public consciousness portray them to be.

Actually, it turns out we have more concern for when we return to Spain, where protests against austerity measures in Madrid and Barcalona have become violent... we'll see how that goes next week.

Carry On



Even with the chance of things going badly, it’s up to you to be flexible and handle the unexpected.  The couple who lost their papers booked another flight on Monday, and went out to see more of the town while they are stuck here.  I’m enjoying the view from our terrace while I recover.  How would you deal with these challenges to enjoying your Moroccan holiday?

A guided tour of Fez (Fès)? Or go it alone?

 It was a debate we'd had all week, whether to get an official guide to help us navigate the huge and unending maze of Fez’s medina, or go ahead and get lost on our own.  In Marrakech we had no trouble, and even if you do get lost in the souks, all roads eventually lead back to the main plaza Djemma El Fna anyway.  However, we had read online that Fez was a different story, more challenging to figure out and more likelihood of becoming irreparably lost. 

The night of our arrival in fact, two lost tourists knocked on the door of our Riad to ask for directions, because they were staying with a family but could not remember where to find the house.  It was after nightfall and sadly the Riad staff could not give them much help.

So, given the complexity, the lost backpackers, and the recommendation of our hostess here in Fez to get a guide, we decided to try it.  Why not.  It’s a bit expensive, but it wouldn’t be a waste to see the city and hopefully get a more local perspective of the town.  This was for the most part the case, but after trying it would I recommend you get a guide?  It depends on a few things. 

Our Experience

First, a quick description of our experience with a guided tour of Fez:


Inside the Attarine Medersa, Fez



We made our decision at breakfast, and our hostess arranged for her preferred guide to come meet us at the Riad about an hour later.  There are licensed guides for tourists, though you may be hassled on the street by unlicensed ones (called “faux guides”) that are illegal and reportedly unreliable.  The price we had seen online for official city guides was about 200 Dirhams for the day, but our hostess told us it would be 250 for four hours—inflation, inclusion of tip, finder's fee?  We weren’t sure.   

Our Riad was close to the “golden triangle” of monuments, and we headed through the crazy streets towards the first one, the Qarawiyyin- a Mosque and university established in the 9^th century.  From there we passed through busy markets and shops with stops in the Andalous neighborhood, the beautiful Attarine Medersa, the mausoleum of Fez’s founder Moulay Idriss, and of course the tanneries, for a chance to see the laboring leather makers and peruse their extensive selection of products (mint sprig in hand for relief from the smell).  This all took us just around three hours, and though we saw quite a bit we hardly left a one-kilometer square area of the enormous medina.   Our guide was happy to answer any questions we had about the food stalls and buildings we saw and careful to point out the streets near our riad that would lead us home after going out on our own later.

So, should you get a guide?

Well, here are the positives and negatives in our experience:

A donkey passes under one of the red
 tourist circuit signs in the medina.

For a short visit to Fez, a guide will basically show you everything you wanted to check off the list and give you a good taste of the medina.  If this is your first trip to Morocco (as it was ours) and especially if it’s your first visit to a medina, a compacted urban center that has been built in layers over thousands of years, it is definitely helpful for acclimating to what may otherwise be an overwhelming and disorienting experience.  It’s also nice to get to speak with someone who is from the city—our guide was born and raised in Fez.  And they probably will take you places and subtle details you might overlook on your own.  We felt like we saw a few unusual corners thanks to our guide.   The downside is primarily the expense, along with the limits to where you go and the possible pressure to buy from the sellers your guide introduces you to.

If you have experience travelling in non-Western countries, you can probably do your own tour without any issues.  You will of course know to be wary of unsolicited helpers, careful with your possessions, and respectful with the people you encounter.   It is also easier than I expected to find your way on the main streets, thanks to some helpful “tourist circuit” markers that indicate self-guided walking tours and what monuments are nearby.  Fez is definitely less touristy than Marrakech; you feel much more like you are immersed in the normal life of the city’s inhabitants.  Yet unlike the Berber souk in Marrakech where you will have lots of shops on either side to entertain you while you are lost, in Fez there are more intimidating dark passages through quiet residential neighborhoods and fewer guiding landmarks.

A few things to keep in mind with a guide

First, the price of the guide does not include admission fees for monuments and museums.  You can’t actually go into the most famous monuments because they are functioning religious sites restricted to Muslims only, but you can peek through the door to see the interiors.  Also, your guide will take you inside the tannery shops and stop at workshops and such where you can see people working and purchase items.  You won’t necessarily be expected to buy, but it’s thoughtful to tip people a few Dirhams, especially if you’ve taken their photo (having asked their permission) or sampled their food.   There’s also the option of taking a drive to vista points where there are good views of the town, but again you’ll be paying for the transportation.  In other words: the complete tour will cost you more than the price of a guide, depending on how much you want to do.

So, if you are an experienced traveler and have more time than money, do it on your own.  Maybe buy a guidebook for maps and historical details.  If you are unsure or pressed for time, the official guide will help you get your footing and provide context and interpretations of what you see. 

A Wander through the Medina in Marrakech

Morocco and Southern Spain have been united in spirit since the Roman Empire, and the evidence of their shared ancestry is still very evident in the architecture, food, and culture of Andalucía.  Visiting Morocco helps you to appreciate that rich interwoven history even more. For a little practical information on how to do it, please see the Morocco page.  There are many places to begin in Morocco, but for this journey I will start with the ancient capital of the medieval empire, Marrakech. 

Finding your way through the souks (markets) and streets of the ancient city is an experience that is both fleeting and eternal.  Each moment is unlike any other in this ever-changing collection of humanity; yet it is also just the same as it has been for perhaps a thousand years in this very place.  Here I will try to capture a few moments and the way they flow through you and around you in the Marrakech Medina:

We step out of the Riad, tucked between the shared red walls of the Medina and into our impossibly narrow street.  Getting around takes practice, but after a few tries we are confident with how to get between our little guesthouse and the major attractions- turn left, then right, another right, then left again, then right at the archway, then left past the Mosque, but don't take the passage on the right even when a (seemingly) helpful youth tells you it's closed on the left...  ten or twelve more directions like that and we arrive in the souks near the famous Jemma El Fna Plaza.



A laden donkey cart attempts to pass through the souk lane.

 All along our route there are a thousand little moments to be part of, if we take the risk of pulling our attention away from the endless hazards in our path.  Women cluster around a door, a few with babies strapped to their backs, waiting for children gripping their small blackboards to burst noisily out of school for lunch.  Inside a closet-sized workspace, a man sits amidst an unbelievable pile of old shoes that are magically holding tight to the walls all the way up to the low ceiling as he repairs a sole.  Next to him, a cart where a woman fries fish and men pull up child-sized stools to sit and snack.  In other places, younger men crowd around stalls where ground meat is sautéed and squished into big rolls, or where skewers of chicken and lamb are served with bowls of beans, into which they dip their bread.  The smells of cooking meats and yeast are occasionally interrupted with touches of mint, from a vendor sitting on the ground with piles of the leaves on sheets, or rose and cumin wafting up from the spice vendors’ barrels.

Now we have to glance at the street ahead of us, where a man throws water on the cobble stones in front of his shop, just as a shout from behind warns of the approaching donkey cart.  A motorcycle weaves around him, taking advantage of the pedestrians pressed against the walls.  A peek in another doorway, in this one men are counting receipts, or are they playing cards? Not enough time to figure it out before I have to step around a group of delighted toddlers as they receive soft-serve ice cream cones and a pair of women who have stopped suddenly to check the price on some shoes.  Just around the corner a lingerie salesman is mobbed by a group of hijab-clad women who can’t resist his prices.  They dig through a huge box of underwear and bras, pulling and stretching them before handing over a few coins for their prize.

Now, we are just near the plaza, entering the Berber Souks.  "It's closed", says a voice, trying to redirect us.  "hello, excuse me! yes?", words that you instinctually respond to, but eye contact will doom you to the eager attention of a would-be guide seeking an opportunity.  It is impossible to take in all of the displays of jewelry, shoes, cloth, purses, lanterns, paintings, oils, scarves, and spices that are offered a hundred times in each shop’s display. Vibrant colors and glints of light on metal constantly tug my eye, until I notice all that is hanging overhead—bundles of dyed yarns, gourds, alligator and snake skins…Pressing on, a little boy rounds us with quick steps, carrying a silver tray with glasses, a teapot, and sprigs of mint blooming out of a cup.  He turns quickly between two shops to deliver—

Oops, I tripped on a mat covering a drain in the middle of the street.  All the vendors watch for a moment to see if this will slow me down.  Moving on, cautiously.

It’s late afternoon now, and another call to prayer echoes through the streets from multiple competing muezzin, each with their unique expression through the loudspeakers. A nut and dry fruit seller has gone to pray, simply covering his stock with a sheet until he returns.  The man walking in front of us whistles a little song which is echoed back to him—I look up and see tiny birdcages hanging on the wall where pastel parakeets reply to his tune.  A cool breeze is welcome as we step out of the narrow souk and into the inevitable plaza.  The snake charmers are playing their eerie recorders, men with rust colored macaques on leashes chase tourists, endless stalls with fresh orange juice and grilled meats have popped up in the dusk to tempt us.  A group of musicians plays traditional desert tunes while men in velour robes try to put their hats on passersby and solicit some coins for the song.  Someone whispers in his ear, “hashish?”, while I am busy fending off the women pushing their henna tattoo services on me.  We circle and circle again, taking it in until our senses are satiated.

After a long evening, we find our way back past the “Barça” graffiti of loyal football fans and around a few puddles into our familiar neighborhood.  Our Riad is so peaceful and still compared to the churning humanity we swam through today, alhamduillah.  We welcome the rest to prepare for whatever the next moment brings in Marrakech.

Dining in Andalucia- part 1

Eating out in Andalucia is an opportunity to both experience the region's cultural history and diversity through food, and to also partake in what seems to be cherished part of Spanish life- sharing a meal.  At cafés on any given day, you will see large tables of multigenerational families and friends amassed around drinks or meals or chocolate and churros, where they may relax together for hours.  There is no rush to move on, no destination in mind, everyone is simply together-- well, until the children run into the plaza to play a game.  This is a mode of life that is always a little puzzling to Americans, who too often consider food a momentary distraction, but with experience we can truly learn a simple value for living well.

There are many choices for what to eat, when to eat, and where.  I'll divide these topics into several posts, starting with the first decision a visitor has to make when they get hungry, where to go.  A quick piece of advice: if you read that the #1 rated restaurant on Trip Advisor is "not a tourist trap!" remind yourself of two things: you are reading a review on Trip Advisor, in English, which might indicate this restaurant isn't exactly a locals-only hide away.  Also, you are a tourist, and it's not always bad to eat at places that know how to cater to your needs, like a menu in English.

Where to Go
Ah, so many places to choose from! Here are a few of your options:

Cafetería- these aren't the lunch rooms of your school house, but more as the name implies, places to get a cup of coffee and perhaps something to eat.  Nothing fancy, these places mostly offer the Spanish tortilla (not like a Mexican tortilla, this is more like an omlette of potatoes and eggs), sandwiches, pastries, and other simple fare.  Most coffee is actually espresso served con leche (with milk), unless you ask for it solo, which means you want just a shot.

Churrería or Chocolatería- cafés specializing in an amazing invention, the cup of rich dark chocolate and stack of hot golden churros. Ordering is easy, just ask for "un chocolate con churros" and they'll bring it right out.  The chocolate is brought in a mug like you  might expect a cup of coffee to be served in, but this isn't your typical watery hot chocolate.  This is rich and intense chocolate, not very sweet, which you can scoop up with the little spoon or dip your churro into for a beautiful combination of fried dough and melted chocolate.  The Spanish pick their churros up with a napkin wrapped around the end as a handle for dipping.  Usually an evening snack, but also available for breakfast if you need a morning cocoa fix.  There's more on the menu, but I've only seen bewildered tourist order their dinner at a Churrería.

Taberna- now we're moving in the direction of real dining, but it depends on the place.  This is still primarily a bar, that may offer some worthwhile tapas or lunch and dinner menus. 

Bodega- A wine bar that usually serves some more elegant options for eating. Not the same as a bodega in the U.S., which is more commonly the term for a neighborhood store. Remember that most places like this will offer you the same dish as a tapas or ración, the latter being a larger portion for meal or sharing with several people, the tapas being a snack size taste. Wine in Spain is not marked up terribly when drinking by the glass, you can expect to pay just two or three euros for a decent pour.  More on wine options in another posting.

Restaurante- Now we might be in a more formal dining range, where lunch and (especially in tourist areas) dinner will be more elaborate and hopefully tasty.  Of course, keep in mind that McDonalds is a Restaurante, so this is a pretty broad category.  Look for that Menu del Día before you sit to see what your best options are.



It's not fancy, but the fishing boats behind it tell you it's fresh!

  Chiringuito- Finally, your most interesting option in the beach communities, especially Marbella where these more casual restaurants will be cooking up skewers or "spits" as it's usually translated of fire-barbequed fish.  Before nightfall, they load up piles of wood on large  grills raised up on the sand (some inside repurposed fishing boats).  When the wood gets white hot, it's ready for cooking long skewers of anchovies, skate, bream, and other fish, many local. Not only is it delicious, it's perhaps the best atmosphere around, sitting on the sand under the stars with the waves lapping nearby. Our favorite meal in Spain so far was at one of these simple and casual places.

So that's basically what the names mean, but quality and offerings vary greatly depending on the actual place.  What about you, any particular favorites?

Next time, on to the good stuff- what to order!