Morocco

Andalucía and Morocco have a long and intertwined history.  The Alhambra in Granada and Mezquita in Cordoba draw on North African architecture and Islamic tradition, as many well know.  However the inverse is also true: in Marrakech, the Palais El Badi was built to echo the esthetics of the Alhambra and the intricate 11^th century Minbar (pulpit) from Koutoubia Mosque was created by Andalucian craftsmen.  In Fès, there is a whole neighborhood of the medina called Andalous to this day. Given this shared cultural heritage and their proximity, it makes perfect sense to combine the two in one trip if you can. 

You can tailor a trip to Morocco to fit your schedule, but I would recommend a minimum of 5 days if you want to visit the prime attractions of Marrakech, Fès, and Meknès.  You will need at least a week in Morocco to include an excursion to the Sahara, which I'm told takes at least 2 days. 

For more stories and insights, see some of the postings on the Marrakech Medina, Trains, Tour Guides, and the occasionally less fun side of travel in Morocco.

Getting here from Southern Spain (Andalucía)

By Boat: There are frequent ferries from Spain to the tip of North Africa, both Tangiers in Morocco and Cueta, the Spanish holding across the Straight.  Price and transit time will depend on where you land, what boat you take (faster is more expensive), and if you are bringing your car across.  You can purchase tickets online for some companies, (FRS and  Direct Ferries among others), and there are also places to buy them in Spain—even ticket offices on the road to Malaga from Granada.  Ferries mostly depart from Algeciras, the port town next to Gibraltar. 

By Plane: A few airlines fly out of Malaga directly to Morocco—currently, your choices are Royal Air Maroc and a Spanish budget airline, Helitt, which began flying to Casablanca in May 2012.  We took Helitt because the price was right, and though we were delayed a few hours we arrived just fine (the return was on time and comfortable).

The advantage of the ferry is the frequency and low price, but from Tangiers you have a long way to go to get to the more inviting sights of Morocco (Marrakech is a good day's travel away by train).  It is easy to do a day trip to Tangiers if you just want to set foot in Africa and buy a few souvenirs.  The advantage of flying is that you can arrive quickly in the south of the country in Casablanca, where you are just a few hours by train to either Marrakech or Fez.  Flying in to the south and working your way north back to Tangiers for the boat could be a pleasant trip.

Getting Around

By Car: I read an article in the travel section of a newspaper that recommended renting a car for your trip and we considered it; however, after experiencing Moroccan traffic I am glad we opted to use public transportation.  Sure, the highways look decent, but there is a culture of driving here that you need experience to understand before attempting to navigate the roads, particularly those within the cities.  If you’re trying to drive inside the Medina, forget it.  I’ve passed more than one lost tourist trying to navigate the impossibly tiny, crowded, unmarked roads that are difficult enough to traverse on foot.  If you have ever driven in Indonesia, for example, I would say you are almost brave enough to drive here too, and you may enjoy the freedom if you want to visit small places in between the cities. However, the effort and cost are high compared to the easy and inexpensive trains and buses that will take you most places you want to go.

By Train: Trains connect the major metropolitan areas and run frequently between Marrakech, Casablanca, Rabat, and Fes.  Costs are modest; the longest trip, Marrakech to Fes will take 7 hours and cost you 195 Dirhams for 2^nd class, 295 Dirhams for 1^st class (as of September 2012).  Most train cars (not all) are divided into compartments, with two rows of seats facing each other and a small shelf for storing your bag over head.  First class offers an assigned seat and is only 6 passengers per compartment; second class is unassigned, with 8 per compartment, so there is a bit more jostling and urgency for second class passengers when getting on the train to claim their spot, but it does seem to work out in the end.  (Exception: Casablanca train between Casa Voyageurs and Airport Mohammad V, where compartments appear to be the same size).

I do recommend buying your ticket in advance for the long journeys, though you can only do this once you arrive in Morocco by going to the train station.  If you go the day before or a few hours before your train you will be able to request a window seat if traveling first class, for example.  In the hour just before the train is leaving the ticket line gets long with last minute purchases.   Also beware that train schedules are not always precise-- you may arrive a good half hour (or more) later than your expected arrival time.

By Bus: There are a few bus companies that connect the major and minor destinations of Morocco, but it is difficult to get schedules or prices in advance.  In general, the bus is less expensive than the train, but travels less frequently.  Supratours is the best known company with air-conditioned buses.  From Marrakech to Fes they only offer one bus overnight which take a route through the Atlas Mountains, rather than passing through Casablanca as the trains do.

Where to Stay

In both Marrakech and Fes, there is the opportunity to stay in a local Riad within the older part of the cities (called the Medina), which is a uniquely Moroccan experience.  A Riad functions like a B&B-- it is a home converted for use by guests, with breakfast included in the stay.  Most Riads are remodeled to fit Western visitors' expectations, with private ensuite bathrooms (though some still have shared bathrooms), a rooftop terrace for lounging and meals, and a cool courtyard, sometimes with a pool and even an in-house hammam (traditional spa).  Many are operated by French and British expats who will understand your interests and expectations as a stranger in a strange land, as well as Moroccans with experience abroad, who will be able to bridge the cultural divide to help you make the most of your trip. 

In addition to the Riads, there are also private homes which rent rooms for backpackers, as well as upscale hotels with the full Western amenities.  Finding your way home is perhaps the ultimate test of your memory and internal GPS. 

In Marrakech, we stayed with Dar Coram and were extremely pleased with our accommodations, the services, and the outstanding hospitality. 

General Tips:

• People in Morocco are friendly, but remember that some people on the street will offer you help with an expectation of getting a tip.  Even kids will be very happy to show you the way to where you’re going, (or show you the way they’d like you to go, via their uncle’s shop), but once you get there they’ll be waiting for their reward.  Smile and thank people, but just keep walking when they tell you to follow them or that the road you’re on doesn’t go anywhere.  If it’s a dead end, you’ll figure it out yourself, without paying everyone you pass.
• Keep a lot of small change with you, to use to tip people who do help you, pay for restrooms (many require a fee, even inside a museum), and to buy small things like bread, cookies, or water on the street.
• Don't keep lots of cash or valuables on you, there are problems with pickpockets in areas frequented by tourists.
• If you’re staying in a riad in the Medina in Fes or Marrakech for the first time, take your host up on their offer for a transfer from the airport or train station.  I’ve traveled a lot on my own and I’m wary of hotels offering extra services I don’t need, but this one you probably do if its deep in the Medina.  Their driver knows exactly where the riad is, unlike a taxi driver who will dump you in a plaza for twice the price, or a “guide” who offers to lead you there.  You can be adventurous and explore the maze of alleys after you’ve dumped your passport and bag in your room.
• In my opinion, most of the museums are not big attractions.  The interiors are often stunningly-restored palaces, which might be worth seeing in some cases, but the displays are often of 20th century items put there to fill the case.  The Koranic schools (Madrasas) that are now open for the public have more authentically old and beautiful interiors, with many layers of calligraphy, carving, and tilework.
• Signs and information are usually posted in Arabic and French, with some tourist information available in English and Spanish as well.  If you get lost and need directions, try a shopkeeper (as you buy something small from him) or attendant at a museum. Somehow, even when you don't speak a common language, you'll find a way to communicate.
• And of course the usual stuff: drink lots of bottled water, wear sunscreen, don’t carry enough money to reward a nimble pickpocket, and try the street food, especially from a vendor outside of the tourist areas.