How to ruin your trip to Fez

Sadly, not every holiday in Morocco goes as planned.  There are a few unfortunate pitfalls that you may encounter, as many visitors before you have too.  Being aware of the problems might help you to avoid, or at least prepare, for some awful moments.  Of course, this is just about precaution— these are rare occurrences and for the most part travel in Morocco is safe and enjoyable. 

Get Sick



Taking it easy on the rooftop terrace of our Riad



You would think I would be immune to intestinal problems, or at least know how to avoid them, after getting some really outstanding bugs in Colombia, Indonesia, and quite honestly, right in my home state of California.  Yet, somewhere along the line I got too comfortable or unlucky, and a really fabulous case of traveler’s sickness hit me here in Fez.  Not sure where it came from—the cheese sandwich on the train yesterday?  The fruit salad with dinner?  Yes, I’ve made a few questionable choices.  Ç’a arrive, as they say here. It happens.  Inshallah, as they also say, I’ll hopefully be well again soon. (Already much better, thanks.)

How to deal with it?  Well, if you’re already hit with a bug, there are some useful tips on the wikitravel page, such as drinking water and taking it easy, obviously.  Maybe write a blog to keep your mind off of it for a little while.  

The local cure seems to be a teaspoon of ground cumin, washed down with water.  I just took my dose, we'll see how it works...

If you are still packing, you might have time to buy some pepto bismol and loperamide (Immodium) to take with you and help the symptoms.  Charcoal tablets are also good for absorbing and removing the offending elements.  Taking some antibiotics with you for an extended trip is often recommended by doctors too, for the worst cases.

Get Pickpocketed



It was a very unlucky day in our Riad—the same day I became sick, a French couple staying here were the victims of a pickpocket while they were on a bus to the airport. They thought their plane tickets, passports and money were safely tucked inside her purse which was zipped up and under her arm all along.  Arriving at the airport check-in, they began to search for their papers, still completely unaware that someone had taken a knife to the back of her bag to cut a hole and reach inside.  It wasn’t until she examined her purse closely that she realized the zipper had been sliced open just a few inches by a quiet thief, enough to ruin their vacation.

Whereas most travelers would be especially careful with their money in crowded streets, many of us drop our guard a bit when we are inside a shop or on a bus or train.  I’ve heard from other travelers of purses being picked while reaching for an item while shopping.  We were also warned about speaking on a smartphone in public, as sometimes a thief will quickly snatch it from you while you are distracted with your conversation.  Unfortunately, thieves practice at their craft much more than you practice your skills at avoiding them. 



What to do?  Leave behind valuables and important items with you while you’re out exploring.  Don’t carry too much cash.  If you are carrying your passport and wallet because you’re on your way to the airport, like our unfortunate friends, keep them deep in your bags or under your clothes.  You’ll want them handy for check-in, but wait until you arrive to fish them out.  Don’t use the front pocket of your backpack; if you can, tuck items into a safety pouch or at least carry them in your front pockets. 

Most importantly, don’t keep everything in one place. Maybe your cash will be missing, but if your credit cards are in another place you can still pay for a hotel and dinner.  If you do encounter a clever thief who finds a way around your preparations, you may need a backup plan to pay for your food, lodging, and return tickets—travel insurance or other alternatives.

Be Afraid



Maybe these horror stories have already made you change your plans to come to Morocco, but I hope not.   The small possibilities of illness and pickpockets shouldn’t deter you!  However, some might be swayed by news reports of conflicts and anti-American protests in the Arab world. 

We had our concerns, as a ridiculous "film" produced in the US and the publishing of a controversial cartoon in France became the sparks for protests in Egypt, Pakistan, and other nations.  When the US Ambassador was killed in nearby Libya, we began to wonder if we should have safety concerns about traveling to North Africa.

Caution is good, but information is better. Don’t rule out a trip because you read a disturbing article on Yahoo news. Find out what the US State Department and other sources say about the risks.  Try writing to travel discussion groups where you might be able to get first-hand perspective from tourists who are currently in the place you would like to visit. 


We did some research and found there were no travel advisories for Morocco or any other negative information that would stop us from going. Once here, we found Morocco to be diverse, tolerant, and welcoming of foreign visitors.

We heard that two French couples canceled their vacation to Morocco out of fear, which is a shame.  It’s unfortunate that we tend to lump the world into a single package.  The diverse people that make up a society are never as unified or extreme as quick caricatures in the media and public consciousness portray them to be.

Actually, it turns out we have more concern for when we return to Spain, where protests against austerity measures in Madrid and Barcalona have become violent... we'll see how that goes next week.

Carry On



Even with the chance of things going badly, it’s up to you to be flexible and handle the unexpected.  The couple who lost their papers booked another flight on Monday, and went out to see more of the town while they are stuck here.  I’m enjoying the view from our terrace while I recover.  How would you deal with these challenges to enjoying your Moroccan holiday?

A guided tour of Fez (Fès)? Or go it alone?

 It was a debate we'd had all week, whether to get an official guide to help us navigate the huge and unending maze of Fez’s medina, or go ahead and get lost on our own.  In Marrakech we had no trouble, and even if you do get lost in the souks, all roads eventually lead back to the main plaza Djemma El Fna anyway.  However, we had read online that Fez was a different story, more challenging to figure out and more likelihood of becoming irreparably lost. 

The night of our arrival in fact, two lost tourists knocked on the door of our Riad to ask for directions, because they were staying with a family but could not remember where to find the house.  It was after nightfall and sadly the Riad staff could not give them much help.

So, given the complexity, the lost backpackers, and the recommendation of our hostess here in Fez to get a guide, we decided to try it.  Why not.  It’s a bit expensive, but it wouldn’t be a waste to see the city and hopefully get a more local perspective of the town.  This was for the most part the case, but after trying it would I recommend you get a guide?  It depends on a few things. 

Our Experience

First, a quick description of our experience with a guided tour of Fez:


Inside the Attarine Medersa, Fez



We made our decision at breakfast, and our hostess arranged for her preferred guide to come meet us at the Riad about an hour later.  There are licensed guides for tourists, though you may be hassled on the street by unlicensed ones (called “faux guides”) that are illegal and reportedly unreliable.  The price we had seen online for official city guides was about 200 Dirhams for the day, but our hostess told us it would be 250 for four hours—inflation, inclusion of tip, finder's fee?  We weren’t sure.   

Our Riad was close to the “golden triangle” of monuments, and we headed through the crazy streets towards the first one, the Qarawiyyin- a Mosque and university established in the 9^th century.  From there we passed through busy markets and shops with stops in the Andalous neighborhood, the beautiful Attarine Medersa, the mausoleum of Fez’s founder Moulay Idriss, and of course the tanneries, for a chance to see the laboring leather makers and peruse their extensive selection of products (mint sprig in hand for relief from the smell).  This all took us just around three hours, and though we saw quite a bit we hardly left a one-kilometer square area of the enormous medina.   Our guide was happy to answer any questions we had about the food stalls and buildings we saw and careful to point out the streets near our riad that would lead us home after going out on our own later.

So, should you get a guide?

Well, here are the positives and negatives in our experience:

A donkey passes under one of the red
 tourist circuit signs in the medina.

For a short visit to Fez, a guide will basically show you everything you wanted to check off the list and give you a good taste of the medina.  If this is your first trip to Morocco (as it was ours) and especially if it’s your first visit to a medina, a compacted urban center that has been built in layers over thousands of years, it is definitely helpful for acclimating to what may otherwise be an overwhelming and disorienting experience.  It’s also nice to get to speak with someone who is from the city—our guide was born and raised in Fez.  And they probably will take you places and subtle details you might overlook on your own.  We felt like we saw a few unusual corners thanks to our guide.   The downside is primarily the expense, along with the limits to where you go and the possible pressure to buy from the sellers your guide introduces you to.

If you have experience travelling in non-Western countries, you can probably do your own tour without any issues.  You will of course know to be wary of unsolicited helpers, careful with your possessions, and respectful with the people you encounter.   It is also easier than I expected to find your way on the main streets, thanks to some helpful “tourist circuit” markers that indicate self-guided walking tours and what monuments are nearby.  Fez is definitely less touristy than Marrakech; you feel much more like you are immersed in the normal life of the city’s inhabitants.  Yet unlike the Berber souk in Marrakech where you will have lots of shops on either side to entertain you while you are lost, in Fez there are more intimidating dark passages through quiet residential neighborhoods and fewer guiding landmarks.

A few things to keep in mind with a guide

First, the price of the guide does not include admission fees for monuments and museums.  You can’t actually go into the most famous monuments because they are functioning religious sites restricted to Muslims only, but you can peek through the door to see the interiors.  Also, your guide will take you inside the tannery shops and stop at workshops and such where you can see people working and purchase items.  You won’t necessarily be expected to buy, but it’s thoughtful to tip people a few Dirhams, especially if you’ve taken their photo (having asked their permission) or sampled their food.   There’s also the option of taking a drive to vista points where there are good views of the town, but again you’ll be paying for the transportation.  In other words: the complete tour will cost you more than the price of a guide, depending on how much you want to do.

So, if you are an experienced traveler and have more time than money, do it on your own.  Maybe buy a guidebook for maps and historical details.  If you are unsure or pressed for time, the official guide will help you get your footing and provide context and interpretations of what you see.