How to ruin your trip to Fez

Sadly, not every holiday in Morocco goes as planned.  There are a few unfortunate pitfalls that you may encounter, as many visitors before you have too.  Being aware of the problems might help you to avoid, or at least prepare, for some awful moments.  Of course, this is just about precaution— these are rare occurrences and for the most part travel in Morocco is safe and enjoyable. 

Get Sick



Taking it easy on the rooftop terrace of our Riad



You would think I would be immune to intestinal problems, or at least know how to avoid them, after getting some really outstanding bugs in Colombia, Indonesia, and quite honestly, right in my home state of California.  Yet, somewhere along the line I got too comfortable or unlucky, and a really fabulous case of traveler’s sickness hit me here in Fez.  Not sure where it came from—the cheese sandwich on the train yesterday?  The fruit salad with dinner?  Yes, I’ve made a few questionable choices.  Ç’a arrive, as they say here. It happens.  Inshallah, as they also say, I’ll hopefully be well again soon. (Already much better, thanks.)

How to deal with it?  Well, if you’re already hit with a bug, there are some useful tips on the wikitravel page, such as drinking water and taking it easy, obviously.  Maybe write a blog to keep your mind off of it for a little while.  

The local cure seems to be a teaspoon of ground cumin, washed down with water.  I just took my dose, we'll see how it works...

If you are still packing, you might have time to buy some pepto bismol and loperamide (Immodium) to take with you and help the symptoms.  Charcoal tablets are also good for absorbing and removing the offending elements.  Taking some antibiotics with you for an extended trip is often recommended by doctors too, for the worst cases.

Get Pickpocketed



It was a very unlucky day in our Riad—the same day I became sick, a French couple staying here were the victims of a pickpocket while they were on a bus to the airport. They thought their plane tickets, passports and money were safely tucked inside her purse which was zipped up and under her arm all along.  Arriving at the airport check-in, they began to search for their papers, still completely unaware that someone had taken a knife to the back of her bag to cut a hole and reach inside.  It wasn’t until she examined her purse closely that she realized the zipper had been sliced open just a few inches by a quiet thief, enough to ruin their vacation.

Whereas most travelers would be especially careful with their money in crowded streets, many of us drop our guard a bit when we are inside a shop or on a bus or train.  I’ve heard from other travelers of purses being picked while reaching for an item while shopping.  We were also warned about speaking on a smartphone in public, as sometimes a thief will quickly snatch it from you while you are distracted with your conversation.  Unfortunately, thieves practice at their craft much more than you practice your skills at avoiding them. 



What to do?  Leave behind valuables and important items with you while you’re out exploring.  Don’t carry too much cash.  If you are carrying your passport and wallet because you’re on your way to the airport, like our unfortunate friends, keep them deep in your bags or under your clothes.  You’ll want them handy for check-in, but wait until you arrive to fish them out.  Don’t use the front pocket of your backpack; if you can, tuck items into a safety pouch or at least carry them in your front pockets. 

Most importantly, don’t keep everything in one place. Maybe your cash will be missing, but if your credit cards are in another place you can still pay for a hotel and dinner.  If you do encounter a clever thief who finds a way around your preparations, you may need a backup plan to pay for your food, lodging, and return tickets—travel insurance or other alternatives.

Be Afraid



Maybe these horror stories have already made you change your plans to come to Morocco, but I hope not.   The small possibilities of illness and pickpockets shouldn’t deter you!  However, some might be swayed by news reports of conflicts and anti-American protests in the Arab world. 

We had our concerns, as a ridiculous "film" produced in the US and the publishing of a controversial cartoon in France became the sparks for protests in Egypt, Pakistan, and other nations.  When the US Ambassador was killed in nearby Libya, we began to wonder if we should have safety concerns about traveling to North Africa.

Caution is good, but information is better. Don’t rule out a trip because you read a disturbing article on Yahoo news. Find out what the US State Department and other sources say about the risks.  Try writing to travel discussion groups where you might be able to get first-hand perspective from tourists who are currently in the place you would like to visit. 


We did some research and found there were no travel advisories for Morocco or any other negative information that would stop us from going. Once here, we found Morocco to be diverse, tolerant, and welcoming of foreign visitors.

We heard that two French couples canceled their vacation to Morocco out of fear, which is a shame.  It’s unfortunate that we tend to lump the world into a single package.  The diverse people that make up a society are never as unified or extreme as quick caricatures in the media and public consciousness portray them to be.

Actually, it turns out we have more concern for when we return to Spain, where protests against austerity measures in Madrid and Barcalona have become violent... we'll see how that goes next week.

Carry On



Even with the chance of things going badly, it’s up to you to be flexible and handle the unexpected.  The couple who lost their papers booked another flight on Monday, and went out to see more of the town while they are stuck here.  I’m enjoying the view from our terrace while I recover.  How would you deal with these challenges to enjoying your Moroccan holiday?

A guided tour of Fez (Fès)? Or go it alone?

 It was a debate we'd had all week, whether to get an official guide to help us navigate the huge and unending maze of Fez’s medina, or go ahead and get lost on our own.  In Marrakech we had no trouble, and even if you do get lost in the souks, all roads eventually lead back to the main plaza Djemma El Fna anyway.  However, we had read online that Fez was a different story, more challenging to figure out and more likelihood of becoming irreparably lost. 

The night of our arrival in fact, two lost tourists knocked on the door of our Riad to ask for directions, because they were staying with a family but could not remember where to find the house.  It was after nightfall and sadly the Riad staff could not give them much help.

So, given the complexity, the lost backpackers, and the recommendation of our hostess here in Fez to get a guide, we decided to try it.  Why not.  It’s a bit expensive, but it wouldn’t be a waste to see the city and hopefully get a more local perspective of the town.  This was for the most part the case, but after trying it would I recommend you get a guide?  It depends on a few things. 

Our Experience

First, a quick description of our experience with a guided tour of Fez:


Inside the Attarine Medersa, Fez



We made our decision at breakfast, and our hostess arranged for her preferred guide to come meet us at the Riad about an hour later.  There are licensed guides for tourists, though you may be hassled on the street by unlicensed ones (called “faux guides”) that are illegal and reportedly unreliable.  The price we had seen online for official city guides was about 200 Dirhams for the day, but our hostess told us it would be 250 for four hours—inflation, inclusion of tip, finder's fee?  We weren’t sure.   

Our Riad was close to the “golden triangle” of monuments, and we headed through the crazy streets towards the first one, the Qarawiyyin- a Mosque and university established in the 9^th century.  From there we passed through busy markets and shops with stops in the Andalous neighborhood, the beautiful Attarine Medersa, the mausoleum of Fez’s founder Moulay Idriss, and of course the tanneries, for a chance to see the laboring leather makers and peruse their extensive selection of products (mint sprig in hand for relief from the smell).  This all took us just around three hours, and though we saw quite a bit we hardly left a one-kilometer square area of the enormous medina.   Our guide was happy to answer any questions we had about the food stalls and buildings we saw and careful to point out the streets near our riad that would lead us home after going out on our own later.

So, should you get a guide?

Well, here are the positives and negatives in our experience:

A donkey passes under one of the red
 tourist circuit signs in the medina.

For a short visit to Fez, a guide will basically show you everything you wanted to check off the list and give you a good taste of the medina.  If this is your first trip to Morocco (as it was ours) and especially if it’s your first visit to a medina, a compacted urban center that has been built in layers over thousands of years, it is definitely helpful for acclimating to what may otherwise be an overwhelming and disorienting experience.  It’s also nice to get to speak with someone who is from the city—our guide was born and raised in Fez.  And they probably will take you places and subtle details you might overlook on your own.  We felt like we saw a few unusual corners thanks to our guide.   The downside is primarily the expense, along with the limits to where you go and the possible pressure to buy from the sellers your guide introduces you to.

If you have experience travelling in non-Western countries, you can probably do your own tour without any issues.  You will of course know to be wary of unsolicited helpers, careful with your possessions, and respectful with the people you encounter.   It is also easier than I expected to find your way on the main streets, thanks to some helpful “tourist circuit” markers that indicate self-guided walking tours and what monuments are nearby.  Fez is definitely less touristy than Marrakech; you feel much more like you are immersed in the normal life of the city’s inhabitants.  Yet unlike the Berber souk in Marrakech where you will have lots of shops on either side to entertain you while you are lost, in Fez there are more intimidating dark passages through quiet residential neighborhoods and fewer guiding landmarks.

A few things to keep in mind with a guide

First, the price of the guide does not include admission fees for monuments and museums.  You can’t actually go into the most famous monuments because they are functioning religious sites restricted to Muslims only, but you can peek through the door to see the interiors.  Also, your guide will take you inside the tannery shops and stop at workshops and such where you can see people working and purchase items.  You won’t necessarily be expected to buy, but it’s thoughtful to tip people a few Dirhams, especially if you’ve taken their photo (having asked their permission) or sampled their food.   There’s also the option of taking a drive to vista points where there are good views of the town, but again you’ll be paying for the transportation.  In other words: the complete tour will cost you more than the price of a guide, depending on how much you want to do.

So, if you are an experienced traveler and have more time than money, do it on your own.  Maybe buy a guidebook for maps and historical details.  If you are unsure or pressed for time, the official guide will help you get your footing and provide context and interpretations of what you see. 

A Wander through the Medina in Marrakech

Morocco and Southern Spain have been united in spirit since the Roman Empire, and the evidence of their shared ancestry is still very evident in the architecture, food, and culture of Andalucía.  Visiting Morocco helps you to appreciate that rich interwoven history even more. For a little practical information on how to do it, please see the Morocco page.  There are many places to begin in Morocco, but for this journey I will start with the ancient capital of the medieval empire, Marrakech. 

Finding your way through the souks (markets) and streets of the ancient city is an experience that is both fleeting and eternal.  Each moment is unlike any other in this ever-changing collection of humanity; yet it is also just the same as it has been for perhaps a thousand years in this very place.  Here I will try to capture a few moments and the way they flow through you and around you in the Marrakech Medina:

We step out of the Riad, tucked between the shared red walls of the Medina and into our impossibly narrow street.  Getting around takes practice, but after a few tries we are confident with how to get between our little guesthouse and the major attractions- turn left, then right, another right, then left again, then right at the archway, then left past the Mosque, but don't take the passage on the right even when a (seemingly) helpful youth tells you it's closed on the left...  ten or twelve more directions like that and we arrive in the souks near the famous Jemma El Fna Plaza.



A laden donkey cart attempts to pass through the souk lane.

 All along our route there are a thousand little moments to be part of, if we take the risk of pulling our attention away from the endless hazards in our path.  Women cluster around a door, a few with babies strapped to their backs, waiting for children gripping their small blackboards to burst noisily out of school for lunch.  Inside a closet-sized workspace, a man sits amidst an unbelievable pile of old shoes that are magically holding tight to the walls all the way up to the low ceiling as he repairs a sole.  Next to him, a cart where a woman fries fish and men pull up child-sized stools to sit and snack.  In other places, younger men crowd around stalls where ground meat is sautéed and squished into big rolls, or where skewers of chicken and lamb are served with bowls of beans, into which they dip their bread.  The smells of cooking meats and yeast are occasionally interrupted with touches of mint, from a vendor sitting on the ground with piles of the leaves on sheets, or rose and cumin wafting up from the spice vendors’ barrels.

Now we have to glance at the street ahead of us, where a man throws water on the cobble stones in front of his shop, just as a shout from behind warns of the approaching donkey cart.  A motorcycle weaves around him, taking advantage of the pedestrians pressed against the walls.  A peek in another doorway, in this one men are counting receipts, or are they playing cards? Not enough time to figure it out before I have to step around a group of delighted toddlers as they receive soft-serve ice cream cones and a pair of women who have stopped suddenly to check the price on some shoes.  Just around the corner a lingerie salesman is mobbed by a group of hijab-clad women who can’t resist his prices.  They dig through a huge box of underwear and bras, pulling and stretching them before handing over a few coins for their prize.

Now, we are just near the plaza, entering the Berber Souks.  "It's closed", says a voice, trying to redirect us.  "hello, excuse me! yes?", words that you instinctually respond to, but eye contact will doom you to the eager attention of a would-be guide seeking an opportunity.  It is impossible to take in all of the displays of jewelry, shoes, cloth, purses, lanterns, paintings, oils, scarves, and spices that are offered a hundred times in each shop’s display. Vibrant colors and glints of light on metal constantly tug my eye, until I notice all that is hanging overhead—bundles of dyed yarns, gourds, alligator and snake skins…Pressing on, a little boy rounds us with quick steps, carrying a silver tray with glasses, a teapot, and sprigs of mint blooming out of a cup.  He turns quickly between two shops to deliver—

Oops, I tripped on a mat covering a drain in the middle of the street.  All the vendors watch for a moment to see if this will slow me down.  Moving on, cautiously.

It’s late afternoon now, and another call to prayer echoes through the streets from multiple competing muezzin, each with their unique expression through the loudspeakers. A nut and dry fruit seller has gone to pray, simply covering his stock with a sheet until he returns.  The man walking in front of us whistles a little song which is echoed back to him—I look up and see tiny birdcages hanging on the wall where pastel parakeets reply to his tune.  A cool breeze is welcome as we step out of the narrow souk and into the inevitable plaza.  The snake charmers are playing their eerie recorders, men with rust colored macaques on leashes chase tourists, endless stalls with fresh orange juice and grilled meats have popped up in the dusk to tempt us.  A group of musicians plays traditional desert tunes while men in velour robes try to put their hats on passersby and solicit some coins for the song.  Someone whispers in his ear, “hashish?”, while I am busy fending off the women pushing their henna tattoo services on me.  We circle and circle again, taking it in until our senses are satiated.

After a long evening, we find our way back past the “Barça” graffiti of loyal football fans and around a few puddles into our familiar neighborhood.  Our Riad is so peaceful and still compared to the churning humanity we swam through today, alhamduillah.  We welcome the rest to prepare for whatever the next moment brings in Marrakech.

Dining in Andalucia- part 1

Eating out in Andalucia is an opportunity to both experience the region's cultural history and diversity through food, and to also partake in what seems to be cherished part of Spanish life- sharing a meal.  At cafés on any given day, you will see large tables of multigenerational families and friends amassed around drinks or meals or chocolate and churros, where they may relax together for hours.  There is no rush to move on, no destination in mind, everyone is simply together-- well, until the children run into the plaza to play a game.  This is a mode of life that is always a little puzzling to Americans, who too often consider food a momentary distraction, but with experience we can truly learn a simple value for living well.

There are many choices for what to eat, when to eat, and where.  I'll divide these topics into several posts, starting with the first decision a visitor has to make when they get hungry, where to go.  A quick piece of advice: if you read that the #1 rated restaurant on Trip Advisor is "not a tourist trap!" remind yourself of two things: you are reading a review on Trip Advisor, in English, which might indicate this restaurant isn't exactly a locals-only hide away.  Also, you are a tourist, and it's not always bad to eat at places that know how to cater to your needs, like a menu in English.

Where to Go
Ah, so many places to choose from! Here are a few of your options:

Cafetería- these aren't the lunch rooms of your school house, but more as the name implies, places to get a cup of coffee and perhaps something to eat.  Nothing fancy, these places mostly offer the Spanish tortilla (not like a Mexican tortilla, this is more like an omlette of potatoes and eggs), sandwiches, pastries, and other simple fare.  Most coffee is actually espresso served con leche (with milk), unless you ask for it solo, which means you want just a shot.

Churrería or Chocolatería- cafés specializing in an amazing invention, the cup of rich dark chocolate and stack of hot golden churros. Ordering is easy, just ask for "un chocolate con churros" and they'll bring it right out.  The chocolate is brought in a mug like you  might expect a cup of coffee to be served in, but this isn't your typical watery hot chocolate.  This is rich and intense chocolate, not very sweet, which you can scoop up with the little spoon or dip your churro into for a beautiful combination of fried dough and melted chocolate.  The Spanish pick their churros up with a napkin wrapped around the end as a handle for dipping.  Usually an evening snack, but also available for breakfast if you need a morning cocoa fix.  There's more on the menu, but I've only seen bewildered tourist order their dinner at a Churrería.

Taberna- now we're moving in the direction of real dining, but it depends on the place.  This is still primarily a bar, that may offer some worthwhile tapas or lunch and dinner menus. 

Bodega- A wine bar that usually serves some more elegant options for eating. Not the same as a bodega in the U.S., which is more commonly the term for a neighborhood store. Remember that most places like this will offer you the same dish as a tapas or ración, the latter being a larger portion for meal or sharing with several people, the tapas being a snack size taste. Wine in Spain is not marked up terribly when drinking by the glass, you can expect to pay just two or three euros for a decent pour.  More on wine options in another posting.

Restaurante- Now we might be in a more formal dining range, where lunch and (especially in tourist areas) dinner will be more elaborate and hopefully tasty.  Of course, keep in mind that McDonalds is a Restaurante, so this is a pretty broad category.  Look for that Menu del Día before you sit to see what your best options are.



It's not fancy, but the fishing boats behind it tell you it's fresh!

  Chiringuito- Finally, your most interesting option in the beach communities, especially Marbella where these more casual restaurants will be cooking up skewers or "spits" as it's usually translated of fire-barbequed fish.  Before nightfall, they load up piles of wood on large  grills raised up on the sand (some inside repurposed fishing boats).  When the wood gets white hot, it's ready for cooking long skewers of anchovies, skate, bream, and other fish, many local. Not only is it delicious, it's perhaps the best atmosphere around, sitting on the sand under the stars with the waves lapping nearby. Our favorite meal in Spain so far was at one of these simple and casual places.

So that's basically what the names mean, but quality and offerings vary greatly depending on the actual place.  What about you, any particular favorites?

Next time, on to the good stuff- what to order!

Andalucian driving tour: Ronda and the Pueblos Blancos

Gleaming white villages tucked impossibly into crevasses and cascading down the rocky peaks of the Sierras... this romantic image of the Pueblos Blancos is the star of many Andalusian travel brochures, and in person they are breathtakingly charming.  This is Al-Andalus, the land held for so long by fabled Moorish princes, still bearing names derived from Arabic and filled with memories of North Africa in the architecture of every narrow street.  Today we took a drive through the eastern mountains of this region on our way to Ronda, and encountered both what makes this area such a draw for visitors, and the unfortunate downside of that popularity.

Pueblos Blancos: driving the A-377 and A-369

From the Costa del Sol, there are two major routes into the mountains towards Ronda.  We begin on the western route, taking the A-377 from Manilva.  Starting at sea level it is impressive how quickly you are lifted into the hills that cozy up to the coastline.  Behind you,  you might still see the ocean but only for a bit before you cross one ridge and then the next, deep into the countryside.  No more golf courses and apartment units here, now there are just caramel-colored cows grazing on hillsides.  In the spring, these might be lush fields, but on this September morning the grass is brown, tinder dry, and scents the air.  It's a smell I know from fall in California, the peak of fire season.  This landscape has a lot of similarities to my home state, and until we reach the small villages with Moorish towers, it's easy to confuse them.

The road is winding and narrow at times, and not well paved for this section so we move slowly, in no hurry for we're enjoying the spectacular views into the valleys that drop far below.  The first few villages, Casares and Gaucín are actually in those valleys rather than stuck to the sides of high cliffs, those come a bit later.  We pass a few more farms and top a high ridge lined with sleeping wind turbines, where the road begins to descend a little and we catch glimpses of more white towns around each bend, small specks that shine against the dull brown hillsides.

Now the road becomes the A-369, and in a few spots passes through a Pueblo Blanco at it's highest peak, so as you drive through you can look at layers of red tile roofs and down between the streets where flower pots have been secured high in the white walls.  You must look quickly, or you will have passed the town before you do.  But no worries if that happens, since the tourist office has been kind enough to carve out Miradors (viewpoints) all along this road so you can get a second look back at the town.

As we drive though we are thoroughly enchanted, but equally eager for the thrill that Ronda must be-- if these little sights are so endearing, Ronda for all its fame must be as delightful and romantic as Hemingway described, the place to go on a honeymoon or elope, so I've read in tourist guides.  We later regret moving so fast through these villages-- Algatocín, Benadalid, Atajate-- where time has not been in a rush for centuries.


Ronda

Perhaps at one time Ronda was such a village, but today Hemingway's 'dreamed city' is little more than a crowded outdoor museum and commercial hub.  Coming into Ronda via the A-369 is a wonderful way to approach it, as you turn downhill and can see it from a distance where it seems quite nice. Passing through the sleepier areas we approach Old Town through the ancient Moorish city walls.  At this point, we wonder where everyone is, it all looks peaceful...

Punto Nuevo

... then we see them: the long lines of tourists with stickers on their chest to identify their group, following a man with a flag up the incredibly narrow walkways beside the road. Like a trail of baby ducks following their mother, they come one after the other, chattering and snapping pictures, oblivious to the dangers of passing traffic and uneven pavestones. 

We cross over the famed Punto Nuevo, the new bridge that is impressively high over a very scenic gorge that divides the Old and New parts of the city.  Now we are in the main plaza where one sign is immediately eye-catching, the McDonald's that faces the tourist office.  Feeling claustrophobic in the crush of people (this is off-season, mind you) and already disappointed in the lack of charm, my enthusiasm quickly deflates. Still, I hold on to hope that there is something in the side streets, as there was in Cordoba and Granada, to rekindle my interest.  We park the car far from the madness and trek back towards the bridge for look.

Ronda does indeed have many worthwhile sights, and if you are willing to walk patiently behind each tour group, there are some rewards.  The Punto Nuevo offers a stunning view down the incredible chasm forcing you to wonder who thought building a bridge here was a good idea.  There are opportunities to hike down and apparently do some rock climbing too, and for a geologist it could be quite fun.  The Moorish walls have been restored (debate on this to come later) and create an interesting point of view for looking over the surrounding valleys and agricultural lands. The minaret they left behind has predictably become part of a church building, though the many surrounding restaurants and businesses named "Al-Minar" have not forgotten it's original purpose. There is also of course the bullring, the Plaza de Toros, said to be the birthplace of Spain's bullfighting tradition.  Near the old city walls, to bring the old Moorish town to life, there is an animal show fitting for kids which includes a demonstration of traditional falcon hunting.  Finally, Ronda offers many indoor attractions, including churches and museums to explore.  Unfortunately, the museums seem forced, created simply to lure in the crowds and not to offer any richness to the experience.



the deep gorge dividing old and new Ronda



Unlike Granada and Cordoba that seem to have found a way to exist as lively contemporary cities with authentic historical and cultural attractions, Ronda does not really offer the same inviting plazas or cafes full of local families enjoying their day. For Andalucians, perhaps people from those adorable country villages, Saturday must be the day to go shopping in Ronda to buy new shoes and pick up (eggshell white) paint at the hardware store, because the side streets are indeed bustling.  As we walk back to our car, we see a little girl greet her grandmother, a few women with strollers stop to gossip outside a hair salon, a bakery offering treats like "cat tongues" (oval wafer sandwiches filled with cream topped with powdered sugar) and other sweets with Ronda in their name, indicating local specialties.  If only there were some tables outside to sit and enjoy this side of Ronda's life.

Back To Marbella via A-376
 

We return home via A-376, the more traveled road that tour buses can ungracefully navigate up and down.  While there are no lovely villages here, it does pass through the beautiful Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema.  Evergreen pines cover the hills between granite and slate bald spots, and it feels a little like driving up to Big Bear in the mountains near Los Angeles, California.  As we near the coast, the unspoiled hills are eventually pocked with a few enormous villas that cluster close to the country club and golf courses of La Quinta. 

We can see the ocean and know home is nearby.  It was a long day, packed with driving and sights but not overwhelming.  Back in Marbella we are ready for a siesta where we might dream of ancient Andalucia.

A Quick Guide to Marbella Beaches

Most come to the Costa del Sol with a simple goal in mind- hitting the beach!  Here are a few tips before you do, and descriptions of each of Marbella's playas.
First, a few things to help you find your perfect spot on the sand:

Blue Flag Beaches

Many beaches and marinas on the Costa del Sol fly a blue flag that indicates they are participating in a global program for sustainable management of coastal resources.  Beaches identified with the Blue Flag (Sendero Azul) must meet certain criteria for environmental education, water quality, environmental management, and safety and services.  This may help you to identify some of the coast's cleaner spots for bathing and recreation.  Only two of Marbella's beaches are currently Blue Flag qualified: Casablanca and El Cable.  Go to their website to find out more about Blue Flag beaches around the world.

Chiringuitos and Cabanas

On most beaches, you will find charming palmfrond umbrellas over pairs of lounge chairs.  For a fee (3-5 Euros usually) you can relax here and order anything from drinks to massages, depending on the location.  These are operated by the nearby Chiringuitos.  Chiringuitos are small bars and restaurants located right on the sand, where you can also sit and sip a drink or enjoy a meal while looking at the water.

What to Bring

You don't have to rent the cabanas, you are welcome to set yourself up anywhere on the sand.  Bringing your own towel, chairs, umbrella are all recommended for a long day.  The water is quite clear on some beaches and many bring goggles or snorkelling gear for swimming.  There are plenty of shops along the walkway in case you forgot your sunscreen, as well as restaurants and those chiringuitos to offer you a snack or meal.  Most of the beaches have good facilities that include outdoor showers and drinking fountains, though you may want to scope out the nearest restrooms. 

Ok, now to the beaches!  There are many along the coast, the ones I describe here are the beaches walkable from Marbella city center and the Golden Mile.  The sand here is not ideal, kind of gray and fine with lots of pebbles.  However, they are fairly clean with only a few sad cigarette butts and other trash to spoil the experience.  The views of the blue Mediterranean waters are enchanting from any beach you choose.

Beaches of Marbella

El Cable: this beach is east of the Marbella fishing port and the farthest from the main tourist zone, but still offers chiringuitos and other services. It is given high marks from visitors and is currently a Blue Flag beach.  This is a good option for getting away from the bustling areas of Venus Beach though it is still full of visitors in summer months.

La Bajadilla: this small bay along the west side of the Marbella fishing port is most frequented by local families after the school day ends.  There are no chiringuitos here and only a few restaurants in the nearby apartment buildings.

Venus: this beach marks the beginning of the more visitor-oriented beaches, with lots of facilities nearby.  The boardwalk is lined with dozens of restaurants and bars and always busy, especially at night.  There are also sometimes concerts and other special events held here in the evenings.  Also lots of areas for children.

El Faro: the Lighthouse beach is the most easily accessible from Old Town Marbella and the hotels around the city center, making it the most crowded with tourists. 

La Fontanilla: this beach is a long walk from the main strip of Venus, but it is more peaceful.  You'll enjoy the marble boardwalk will great views looking down the beach back into Marbella.  The beach has good facilities and is the start of the Golden Mile area.

Casablanca: welcome to the Golden Mile.  You will find just a few expensive Chiringuitos here, and a natural dirt path walkway (Via Verde) preferred by runners.  The beach here is wide and a bit more quiet, but still offers facilities and has a few offerings for kids.

Final Recommendations:

Marbella's beaches and beach walks are ideal for people watching and partying, with so many places to stop for a drink.  If you're looking for a peaceful beach experience, you might want to try other spots on the Costa del Sol.  If you just want to get a tan and drink sangria before a night of bar hopping, you'll find plenty of British friends here to join you.

Welcome to Southern Spain!

Hi there and thanks for checking out this blog!  I'm starting out on a two month adventure living in and traveling around the south of Spain and nearby destinations.  During my stay, I look forward to sharing some stories and useful information about this ancient and beautiful part of the Mediterranean.

This is my first time in Spain, but coming from Southern California there is much here to make me feel at home-- the climate, the food, and even the language are familiar, if sometimes unexpected.

While there are a few places on the internet that offer good information on traveling here (the best of which I will link to on my "More Resources" page), this blog offers a few unique features.  First, English language resources on Andalucia and the Costa del Sol are mostly provided by British and Spanish (translated) sources, but here I will be sharing an American, specifically Californian, point of reference.  Second, I've recently completed my Master's in Anthropology which has trained me to be insufferably attentive to human behavior, social norms, and cultural complexity.  That should be helpful.  Finally, my extended passport pages can attest to the fact that I've traveled abroad a lot, and really enjoy sharing the experience of getting to know a place and its people beyond the tourist attractions and cliches.

So thank you for reading, please keep coming back and share your own tips, questions, and experiences!

Cheers,
Barbara