Andalucian driving tour: Ronda and the Pueblos Blancos

Gleaming white villages tucked impossibly into crevasses and cascading down the rocky peaks of the Sierras... this romantic image of the Pueblos Blancos is the star of many Andalusian travel brochures, and in person they are breathtakingly charming.  This is Al-Andalus, the land held for so long by fabled Moorish princes, still bearing names derived from Arabic and filled with memories of North Africa in the architecture of every narrow street.  Today we took a drive through the eastern mountains of this region on our way to Ronda, and encountered both what makes this area such a draw for visitors, and the unfortunate downside of that popularity.

Pueblos Blancos: driving the A-377 and A-369

From the Costa del Sol, there are two major routes into the mountains towards Ronda.  We begin on the western route, taking the A-377 from Manilva.  Starting at sea level it is impressive how quickly you are lifted into the hills that cozy up to the coastline.  Behind you,  you might still see the ocean but only for a bit before you cross one ridge and then the next, deep into the countryside.  No more golf courses and apartment units here, now there are just caramel-colored cows grazing on hillsides.  In the spring, these might be lush fields, but on this September morning the grass is brown, tinder dry, and scents the air.  It's a smell I know from fall in California, the peak of fire season.  This landscape has a lot of similarities to my home state, and until we reach the small villages with Moorish towers, it's easy to confuse them.

The road is winding and narrow at times, and not well paved for this section so we move slowly, in no hurry for we're enjoying the spectacular views into the valleys that drop far below.  The first few villages, Casares and Gaucín are actually in those valleys rather than stuck to the sides of high cliffs, those come a bit later.  We pass a few more farms and top a high ridge lined with sleeping wind turbines, where the road begins to descend a little and we catch glimpses of more white towns around each bend, small specks that shine against the dull brown hillsides.

Now the road becomes the A-369, and in a few spots passes through a Pueblo Blanco at it's highest peak, so as you drive through you can look at layers of red tile roofs and down between the streets where flower pots have been secured high in the white walls.  You must look quickly, or you will have passed the town before you do.  But no worries if that happens, since the tourist office has been kind enough to carve out Miradors (viewpoints) all along this road so you can get a second look back at the town.

As we drive though we are thoroughly enchanted, but equally eager for the thrill that Ronda must be-- if these little sights are so endearing, Ronda for all its fame must be as delightful and romantic as Hemingway described, the place to go on a honeymoon or elope, so I've read in tourist guides.  We later regret moving so fast through these villages-- Algatocín, Benadalid, Atajate-- where time has not been in a rush for centuries.


Ronda

Perhaps at one time Ronda was such a village, but today Hemingway's 'dreamed city' is little more than a crowded outdoor museum and commercial hub.  Coming into Ronda via the A-369 is a wonderful way to approach it, as you turn downhill and can see it from a distance where it seems quite nice. Passing through the sleepier areas we approach Old Town through the ancient Moorish city walls.  At this point, we wonder where everyone is, it all looks peaceful...

Punto Nuevo

... then we see them: the long lines of tourists with stickers on their chest to identify their group, following a man with a flag up the incredibly narrow walkways beside the road. Like a trail of baby ducks following their mother, they come one after the other, chattering and snapping pictures, oblivious to the dangers of passing traffic and uneven pavestones. 

We cross over the famed Punto Nuevo, the new bridge that is impressively high over a very scenic gorge that divides the Old and New parts of the city.  Now we are in the main plaza where one sign is immediately eye-catching, the McDonald's that faces the tourist office.  Feeling claustrophobic in the crush of people (this is off-season, mind you) and already disappointed in the lack of charm, my enthusiasm quickly deflates. Still, I hold on to hope that there is something in the side streets, as there was in Cordoba and Granada, to rekindle my interest.  We park the car far from the madness and trek back towards the bridge for look.

Ronda does indeed have many worthwhile sights, and if you are willing to walk patiently behind each tour group, there are some rewards.  The Punto Nuevo offers a stunning view down the incredible chasm forcing you to wonder who thought building a bridge here was a good idea.  There are opportunities to hike down and apparently do some rock climbing too, and for a geologist it could be quite fun.  The Moorish walls have been restored (debate on this to come later) and create an interesting point of view for looking over the surrounding valleys and agricultural lands. The minaret they left behind has predictably become part of a church building, though the many surrounding restaurants and businesses named "Al-Minar" have not forgotten it's original purpose. There is also of course the bullring, the Plaza de Toros, said to be the birthplace of Spain's bullfighting tradition.  Near the old city walls, to bring the old Moorish town to life, there is an animal show fitting for kids which includes a demonstration of traditional falcon hunting.  Finally, Ronda offers many indoor attractions, including churches and museums to explore.  Unfortunately, the museums seem forced, created simply to lure in the crowds and not to offer any richness to the experience.



the deep gorge dividing old and new Ronda



Unlike Granada and Cordoba that seem to have found a way to exist as lively contemporary cities with authentic historical and cultural attractions, Ronda does not really offer the same inviting plazas or cafes full of local families enjoying their day. For Andalucians, perhaps people from those adorable country villages, Saturday must be the day to go shopping in Ronda to buy new shoes and pick up (eggshell white) paint at the hardware store, because the side streets are indeed bustling.  As we walk back to our car, we see a little girl greet her grandmother, a few women with strollers stop to gossip outside a hair salon, a bakery offering treats like "cat tongues" (oval wafer sandwiches filled with cream topped with powdered sugar) and other sweets with Ronda in their name, indicating local specialties.  If only there were some tables outside to sit and enjoy this side of Ronda's life.

Back To Marbella via A-376
 

We return home via A-376, the more traveled road that tour buses can ungracefully navigate up and down.  While there are no lovely villages here, it does pass through the beautiful Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema.  Evergreen pines cover the hills between granite and slate bald spots, and it feels a little like driving up to Big Bear in the mountains near Los Angeles, California.  As we near the coast, the unspoiled hills are eventually pocked with a few enormous villas that cluster close to the country club and golf courses of La Quinta. 

We can see the ocean and know home is nearby.  It was a long day, packed with driving and sights but not overwhelming.  Back in Marbella we are ready for a siesta where we might dream of ancient Andalucia.